| Subject: Restaurants |
| From: "Barrett Brown" <barriticus@gmail.com> |
| Date: 9/17/07, 17:08 |
| To: "Sean O'Neal" <soneal@theonion.com> |
Fleming's
Insomuch as the Texas steakhouse scene is split between two competing factions Charmingly Rustic versus Oh-So-Sophisticated Fleming's may be deemed a moderate pragmatist, existing in neither camp while taking on the best qualities of both of them. Though by no means cheap, entrees are reasonably priced without skimping on quality; the restaurant's gas-broiled, corn-fed beef steaks have wowed area meat heads for years, and the unusually expansive seafood selection is dotted with such upscale oceanic items as the charred salmon fillet with cabernet butter sauce. The availability of 100 wines by the glass provides for prime pairings. Great For: Middle-of-the-roaders. Entrees: $20-30 (320 E 2nd , 457-1500)
Fujiyama
Operating under the venerable old chefs-throwing-knives-around-and-setting-things-on-fire-right-in-front-of-you ethos which has become the hallmark of so many enjoyable Japanese joints, Fujiyama has managed to carve out a nice little niche for itself by supplementing such showmanship with what it bills as Austin's only state-of-the-art smokeless hibachi grill tables. The happy result is such suitable hibachi fodder as steak, salmon, calamari, scallops, chicken, and various combinations thereof, while the non-hibachi menu goes on to include cold-water lobster, miso soup, and various preparation of noodles. Libations are many and varied and include the Green Tea Cocktail, which is almost assuredly good for you. Great For: Adding more scallops to your diet. Entrees: $15-35 (4815 W. Braker #580, 795-8333)
Kobe Japanese Steakhouse
As Austins grows increasingly keen on Kobe, Kobe has likewise grown increasingly ubiquitous in Austin. Enter Kobe Japanese Steakhouse, which trumps all comers by offering the supple beef's high-end Wagyu variant, one notable manifestation of which is a Kobe filet mignon that's only available by reservation. Not content to stick to its moniker, KJS also offers dozens of sushi and sashimi selections (with the Austin Specials Roll consisting of salmon tempura, cucumbers, avocado, water eel, masago, and, of course, eel sauce) and a few odds and ends like the wasabi shrimp cocktail. Also on hand are dozens of wacky cocktails as well as a considerably less wacky wine list that's understandably heavy on the whites. Great For: Forgetting Pearl Harbor. Entrees: $14-60 (13492 Research #380, 288-7333)
Main Street Grill
If Round Rock has never been known for its high-concept New American cuisine and it hasn't - then Main Street Grill will no doubt suffice to turn the city in that general direction all by its lonesome. Even the most accomplished connoisseur of the multi-origin menu is forced to marvel at the newish restaurant's one-of-a-kind fusion inventions the Savory Green Chili Cheesecake makes good use of poblano chilis, cilantro dressing and pico de gallo, while the Asian Seared Vension Medallions is likewise prodigious in its incorporation of Thai spices, blackberry demi glace, wasabi, and pepperjack polenta. As one might expect, the resident wine list is comparably brilliant. Great For: Putting Round Rock on the culinary map. Entrees: $8-30 (118 E. Main, 244-7527)
Mongolian Grille
Though still little more than a bleep on the state's culinary radar screen, the unsubtle art of Mongolian BBQ has of late made significant conquests in Texas. As the onslaught continues, the founders of Mongolian Grille have managed to carve out a three-location kaganate of their own in Austin and Round Rock, with their success fueled in part by the surprising healthiness of its stir-fried offerings. Here, the diner chooses from among twenty different veggies, several sorts of meat, a gaggle of noodle options, and a series of sauces and seasonings. The resulting mix is thereafter cooked up by the chef without recourse to MSG, preservatives, or additives, and thus one's meal is every bit as natural as a sunny day on the 12th century Steppes. No fermented goat's milk on hand, though. Great For: Pillaging your way to good health. Entrees: $7-10 (12636 Research #A110, 335-8888; 117 San Jacinto, 476-3938; 115 Sundance, 716-1900)
Mother's Cafe and Garden (re-opening October)
Rockfish Seafood Grill appears to have closed
Sake
on Sixth appears to have closed
Sullivan's Steakhouse
The 1940s certainly aren't what they used to be. The lone exception is Sullivan's, which successfully emulates the high style of the Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy era by way of such old-school steakhouse staples as dance floors, baby grand pianos, and an utterly swell bar scene. The steaks themselves run from rustic to unorthodox (one version comes topped with crab meat and Bearnaise) and appetizers tend towards the latter the spinach starter covered with warm bacon dressing is counterintuitive but understandably popular. Meanwhile, the rest of the menu is given over to in-season seafood and cute drinks that probably weren't around back in Harry Truman's day, such as the pineapple martini. Great For: Would-be flappers. Entrees: $27-36 (300 Colorado, 495-6504)
Taco Shack
Between its bargain burritos and stylin' digs, Taco Shack has managed to rack up some serious camisa cred with the Austin lunch crowd. Locations may now be found pretty much everywhere, which is certainly a happy development for taco enthusiasts of a thrifty bent. Options abound; the El Nino Taco consists of beans, chorizo, cheese, and oodles of jalapenos ("Can your stomach weather the storm?" the menu description asks, menacingly enough), and the Burnet Road Burrito is a staggering twelve inch epic filled with eggs, potatoes, cheese, and bacon, perfect for those suffering from unfortunately long commutes. For those with nowhere to go and plenty of time to get there, the build-your-own-breakfast-taco is a nice option, too. Great For: Egg enthusiasts. Entrees: $2-6 (Multiple Locations)
Baxter's on Main
Baxter's gets plenty of charm mileage out of being located in one of the few buildings in Texas that was built in the 19th century and not three weeks ago; the rest is derived from a menu that tends to hang out on the conservative side of the street but isn't above crossing it every once in a while. The result is the only restaurant in Bastrop at which one has the occasion to dine on both crab cakes and crème brûlée. Entrees are largely split between steak and fish, with bearnaise mignon with sauteed spinach standing out among the former and Mediterranean salmon doing likewise among the latter. Great For: Sensible palates. Entrees: $9-22 (912 Main, 321-3577)
Blue Bonnet Cafe
Over the course of its 75-year-plus history, Blue Bonnet's down-home edibles and aw-shucks chic has picked up more press than Britney Spears would receive if she shot the queen of England in the face with a bazooka, and has brought in everyone from President Bush to Lyle Lovett, which is to say everyone. The menu is entirely made up of such farmer-friendly fare as chicken n' dumplings, pot roast, meat loaf, fried okra, and a whole host of hearty breakfast items that are served all the live-long day. Homemade pies are a particular draw as well, while iced tea is, of course, king among beverages. Great For: Replacing your mother. Entrees: $4-12 (211 US Hwy 281, 830-693-2344)